📖 13 min read~2260 words
Tatawa Besar and Tatawa Kecil are two small islands lying in the central channel between Komodo and Rinca, occupying one of Komodo National Park's most productive mid-park positions. Together they offer a striking contrast: Tatawa Besar delivers a broad, brilliantly coloured soft-coral reef accessible to intermediate divers and snorkellers, while Tatawa Kecil presents a more demanding underwater landscape of pinnacles and stronger currents that rewards advanced divers with sharks, large pelagics, and a heightened sense of the wild. Few stops in the park pack two such contrasting but complementary experiences onto adjacent islands.
Quick Facts
| Attribute | Tatawa Besar | Tatawa Kecil |
|---|---|---|
| Meaning | Besar = "big" (Indonesian) | Kecil = "small" (Indonesian) |
| Position | Central park; between Komodo & Rinca | Adjacent to Tatawa Besar, slightly east |
| Dive type | Gentle-to-moderate drift, reef wall | Advanced drift, pinnacle diving |
| Depth range | Reef crest (~2 m) to ~25 m | ~5 m to 30+ m at pinnacle base |
| Current | Mild to moderate; manageable for intermediates | Moderate to strong; unpredictable at pinnacle |
| Skill level | Intermediate diver / snorkeller | Advanced / experienced drift diver |
| Signature species | Green & hawksbill turtles, soft corals, reef fish | Whitetip & grey reef sharks, Napoleon wrasse, rays |
| Snorkelling | Excellent — shallow reef crest, calm entry areas | Limited — currents and depth make it unsuitable |
Location and Geography
The two Tatawa islands sit roughly equidistant between the southern coast of Komodo Island and the northern coast of Rinca Island, in the main tidal channel that connects the Sape Strait to the west with the Lintah Strait to the east. This central position means they are exposed to the same powerful tidal flushing that characterises the entire park but are not in one of the most extreme funnel points — making Tatawa Besar's conditions more forgiving than sites like The Cauldron to the north.
Both islands are small and largely unvegetated, rising as rocky, sun-scorched hummocks above the waterline. Their small size and lack of natural shelter means surface conditions around them can change quickly; a calm morning can give way to a brisk cross-chop by afternoon. Neither island has any visitor facilities — they are purely marine destinations, visited by boat and returned to by boat.
Underwater, the two islands have distinct characters despite their proximity. Tatawa Besar's reef extends as a broad, gently sloping terrace before dropping to a wall; the wall face is the site's centrepiece. Tatawa Kecil features a submerged pinnacle system with more dramatic relief, including some passages and overhangs that concentrate current-loving species.
Tatawa Besar: Reef, Soft Corals, and Turtles
Tatawa Besar is widely regarded as one of the park's most accessible and reliably beautiful reef dives. Its defining characteristic is an extraordinary density of soft corals — predominantly Dendronephthya species — which coat the reef wall and terrace edge in vivid shades of orange, pink, red, and white. These corals, which require current to feed on suspended plankton, thrive in Tatawa Besar's moderate flow, and the visual effect when a drift carries you along the wall is among the most photogenic in Komodo.
The Reef Structure
The dive typically begins at the reef crest in 2–5 m of water, where hard corals — including robust Acropora tables and massive Porites heads — form the foundation structure. The terrace slopes gently before the wall proper begins at around 10–12 m, dropping to sand at approximately 25–30 m. The upper wall face between 10–20 m is the soft-coral zone, consistently cited by visiting divers and marine biologists as outstanding even by Coral Triangle standards.
Turtles
Green turtles (Chelonia mydas) and, less commonly, hawksbill turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata) are a consistent feature of Tatawa Besar. They are seen resting on coral ledges, grazing on the reef, and rising to the surface to breathe. The site's relatively gentle current and rich reef structure offer ideal foraging conditions, and turtle encounters here tend to be relaxed rather than brief drift-past glimpses — animals often remain unhurried in the presence of slow-moving divers.
Fish Life
The reef fish community at Tatawa Besar is diverse and dense. Expect large aggregations of anthias (Pseudanthias spp.) hovering above the soft corals, schools of pyramid butterflyfish, moorish idols, and the full complement of Indo-Pacific reef species. Larger animals including Napoleon wrasse, bumphead parrotfish (in occasional passing schools), and various grouper species are also reliably present. The sandy bottom below the wall hosts garden eels, blue-spotted ribbontail rays (Taeniura lymma), and, occasionally, a resting whitetip reef shark.
Snorkelling at Tatawa Besar
The reef crest at Tatawa Besar is shallow enough — sometimes just 2 m below the surface — that snorkellers can observe the upper coral garden, resident reef fish, and, if lucky, turtles ascending from mid-water. Entry conditions are generally calm enough to allow comfortable in-water time without current management skills. This makes Tatawa Besar one of the best snorkelling stops in the park's central zone, and it is regularly included on day-trip itineraries for non-diving passengers.
Tatawa Kecil: Pinnacles, Sharks, and Advanced Drift
Tatawa Kecil is the more demanding sibling — a site where the same tidal energy is compressed over a more complex underwater topography, producing stronger, less predictable currents and a different cast of marine characters. The defining feature is a submerged pinnacle system rising from the seabed, its flanks and crevices providing habitat for species that prefer the interface between reef structure and open water.
Topography and Conditions
The pinnacles at Tatawa Kecil rise from a sandy bottom at 25–35 m to within 5–10 m of the surface. The gaps between pinnacles act as current accelerators, creating localised upwelling and downwelling that makes buoyancy control more challenging than at Tatawa Besar. Divers should be comfortable with abrupt current changes and capable of ascending safely even if conditions shift mid-dive.
Sharks and Pelagics
Tatawa Kecil is known as a reliable shark site. Whitetip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus) rest in crevices and under ledges at the base of the pinnacles, and grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos) patrol the mid-water channels between structures. Divers with patience and calm buoyancy routinely observe multiple individuals. In the right season, scalloped hammerhead sharks have been recorded in deeper water around the pinnacles, though these are less predictable.
Napoleon wrasse are a consistent presence at Tatawa Kecil — large, curious individuals that approach closely and are arguably the most reliably viewable example of this impressive species in the central park. Bumphead parrotfish, schooling in loose aggregations, occasionally pass through the deeper channels.
Hard Coral and Invertebrates
The harder conditions at Tatawa Kecil mean soft coral growth is patchier than at the larger island, but the current-swept pinnacle tops support dense communities of sea fans (Gorgonia spp.) and wire corals (Cirrhipathes spp.), along with nudibranchs and other small invertebrates for macro-photography enthusiasts willing to hover carefully.
Best Time to Visit
Both sites are dived year-round, but conditions and highlights vary by season.
| Season | Tatawa Besar | Tatawa Kecil |
|---|---|---|
| Dry (Apr–Oct) | Best visibility, most consistent current for soft coral; excellent turtle activity | Strongest pelagic action; shark numbers generally higher |
| Wet (Nov–Mar) | Visibility can drop with plankton bloom; green, productive water | Current less predictable; some operators avoid it in peak wet season |
For most visitors choosing between the two as part of a day trip or liveaboard itinerary, visiting Tatawa Besar in the morning (calmer, good for snorkelling) and Tatawa Kecil in the afternoon (when current patterns may favour the pinnacle approach) is a commonly recommended sequence — though the order should always be guided by local tidal conditions on the day.
Getting There
Both Tatawa islands are reached by boat from Labuan Bajo, approximately 1–1.5 hours by speedboat or covered in a morning departure from a liveaboard anchored in the central park. They sit conveniently between the routes connecting Komodo Island and Rinca Island, making them natural additions to itineraries that include both major dragon-trekking islands. Day trips focusing on diving and snorkelling (rather than dragon trekking) commonly route via Tatawa Besar as a highlight stop. All visits require a valid Komodo National Park entry ticket.
Myths vs Facts
| Myth | Fact |
|---|---|
| Tatawa Besar and Tatawa Kecil are the same dive site. | They are adjacent but distinct islands with meaningfully different underwater profiles, current conditions, and marine life assemblages. Most experienced visitors treat them as separate dives. |
| Tatawa Besar is only for beginners and not interesting for experienced divers. | The soft-coral wall at Tatawa Besar is exceptional by any standard, and turtle encounters here satisfy divers of all experience levels. Its "accessible" label refers to conditions, not to quality. |
| You can snorkel safely at Tatawa Kecil. | Current at Tatawa Kecil is strong enough and unpredictable enough that snorkelling is generally not recommended. Stick to Tatawa Besar for surface activities. |
| Sharks at Tatawa Kecil are a danger to divers. | The whitetip and grey reef sharks here are habituated to divers and present no meaningful threat. Standard respectful behaviour — no feeding, no chasing, calm buoyancy — is all that is required. |
| Tatawa means "reef" in Indonesian. | Tatawa is a proper place name, not a descriptive Indonesian common noun. Its etymological origin is in the local regional language. |
Practical Takeaways
- Tatawa Besar is an excellent choice for snorkellers and intermediate divers wanting a visually rich, manageable experience; if your group is mixed-ability, this is the stop to prioritise.
- Tatawa Kecil requires real drift experience — the pinnacle currents can shift quickly, and divers who are not comfortable with variable conditions should not push themselves here.
- Bring an SMB on both dives — standard practice in the park, and the guide will expect it.
- Photography tip: Tatawa Besar's soft corals photograph best with a wide angle in moderate current; Tatawa Kecil's sharks photograph better with a medium telephoto if you have the buoyancy control to hover.
- Check turtle presence with your guide before snorkelling at Tatawa Besar — turtles tend to be in specific areas of the reef and a guide familiar with the site will know the current hotspots.
- Both islands are within the national park fee zone; confirm your entry ticket is valid for the day.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can complete beginners dive at Tatawa Besar?
Open Water-certified divers comfortable with gentle drift conditions can dive Tatawa Besar. The reef crest and upper wall are accessible at moderate depths and the current is manageable with a guide. However, divers who have never experienced any drift diving should discuss this honestly with their dive operator before the trip.
Is Tatawa Besar or Tatawa Kecil better for turtles?
Tatawa Besar is significantly more reliable for turtle encounters. The broader, shallower reef and calmer conditions allow turtles to feed undisturbed, and sightings are frequent throughout the year. Tatawa Kecil's more dynamic current environment makes relaxed turtle observation less likely.
Are the soft corals at Tatawa Besar healthy?
The soft corals at Tatawa Besar are among the healthiest in the park. Unlike hard corals, which are more vulnerable to thermal bleaching and physical damage, Dendronephthya soft corals are resilient to moderate temperature fluctuation and recover more quickly from disturbance. That said, the reef as a whole has experienced some bleaching events in recent years consistent with broader regional warming trends, and localised hard coral mortality has been observed.
How many sharks can I expect at Tatawa Kecil?
On a typical dive in the dry season, seeing 3–8 whitetip reef sharks resting around the pinnacle base is realistic. Grey reef sharks are less numerous but present. Numbers vary with tidal phase, season, and recent boat activity at the site; no specific count can be guaranteed.
What is the water temperature at the Tatawa islands?
Surface temperatures in the central park are generally 26–29°C during the dry season, cooling somewhat in the wet season and in thermocline layers below about 20 m. A 3 mm wetsuit is adequate for most divers; those sensitive to cold may prefer 5 mm.
Can I visit Tatawa on a day trip from Labuan Bajo?
Yes. Day trips from Labuan Bajo that focus on diving and snorkelling regularly include Tatawa Besar. A full day's itinerary can often incorporate both Tatawa islands alongside one other nearby site. Confirm with your operator whether the trip prioritises diving or sightseeing, as dragon-trekking day trips to Komodo or Rinca generally do not include Tatawa.
Sources & Further Reading
- Tomascik, T., et al. (1997). The Ecology of the Indonesian Seas, Part Two. Periplus Editions.
- Erdmann, M.V. (2000). Coral Triangle Initiative — Komodo National Park marine biodiversity surveys. The Nature Conservancy Indonesia.
- Baine, M., et al. (2008). "Reef fish ecology and conservation in Komodo National Park." Aquatic Conservation: Marine and Freshwater Ecosystems.
- Fenner, D. (2001). "Reef coral communities of Komodo National Park." Unpublished survey report, The Nature Conservancy.
- IUCN (2020). Chelonia mydas (Green Turtle). The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species — Endangered.
- Komodo National Park Authority (Balai Taman Nasional Komodo). Marine zone management and visitor regulations.